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Face powder is commonly used to set liquid or cream products (to make them last longer) or to mattify oily skin.  Too much powder can make your makeup look cakey, and  will really show up in flash photography (as in the case of Nicole Kidman above!).  To learn how to avoid this less-than-pretty look, keep reading:

~ Pick a shade of powder that matches your skin tone.  Try to avoid translucent or white powders, I know they’re supposed to be well, translucent, but in most cases they’re not.  Translucent powders have a tendency to lighten complexions and this can be emphasized in photos.  In fact, because I’m so pale, whenever I know I’m going to get my photo taken, I wear a powder one to two shades darker than my natural skin tone, to make up for the lightening effect of the camera flash.

~ Remember that if you wear mineral foundation, you don’t necessarily have to apply a finishing powder on top.  Mineral foundation is almost a two-in-one product that way.

~ If you have really oily skin, try using oil blotting sheets instead of adding more powder. Blotting sheets soak up any excess oil without ruining your makeup! For a really inexpensive option, try Elf’s Shine Erasers, the little package comes with 50 sheets for $1!!

~ Try to find a powder that really works for you.  Two that I really love are: Maybelline Dream Matte Powder and Rimmel Stay Matte Powder.  Both these powders tend not to look cakey, even when applied in excessive amounts.

~ Lastly, try not to blindly follow all the hype about silica powders.  I recently tried the Coastal Scents silica powder (supposedly a more affordable version of the Makeup Forever HD Powder), and it was awful.  The product is super silky and very finely milled, so I had high hopes.  But when I applied some, I found that it lightened my skin tone, just like every other translucent powder I’ve tried.  And things just got worse when I tried to snap a picture… I looked just like Nicole Kidman in the photo above, ghastly white patches everywhere… So, my point is to really shop around for a powder you love and that works for you, and of course don’t forget to take a photo to see how it really looks!

Lip liner is a waxy pencil traditionally used to line the outer edges of the lips to prevent lipstick from bleeding (smudging outside the lip line).  You can even use liner as your actual lip color by just filling in your whole lip and topping it with lip gloss.  Sometimes lip liner can go wrong though, if you choose a liner that’s too dark for your lipstick (à la Eva Longoria Parker) or if you (gasp!) only wear liner on the ring around your lips, it can look tacky.

Here are some tips to avoid this makeup don’t:

~ Don’t feel the need to wear lip liner every time you wear lipstick.  It’s really not necessary most of the time.

~ Fill in your entire lip then top with lipstick when you want extra lasting power.  By filling it all in, you’ll avoid that darker ring that forms around you lips.

~ Pick a color that matches your lipstick perfectly.  If anything you can go a little lighter, not darker.

~ Buy a neutral colored liner and wear that under all your lipsticks.  Something that matches your skin tone won’t look tacky and will still make your lipstick last longer and not smudge.

~ Be careful not to line outside your natural lip line.  If you are trying to make your lips appear larger, try a bright lip gloss instead of over-lining, to make your lips appear plumper.

~ If you are wearing liner on the edges of your lips and under lipstick, don’t forget to retouch your lip color after eating or drinking.  Lipstick wears off faster than liner, and you don’t want to be left with the dreaded dark ring.

When I think of bad foundation, Lindsay Lohan is the first person that comes to mind.  I don’t know why she does it, isn’t she surrounded by makeup artists who can help??  Foundation can start to look mask-like when you choose a shade too light or dark for your skin tone.  As a result there will be a visible line along your jaw separating your makeup and your natural skin color.

To avoid looking like you’re wearing the wrong head try the following tips:

~ Determine whether you have a cool, warm, or neutral undertone.  Cool undertones have a blue or pink cast, warm undertones usually have a yellow cast.  And people neutral undertones have neither; if you’re having trouble determining your undertone, you may be neutral.  Once you have determined your undertone, picking a foundation shade will be a little easier.  A lot of cosmetics companies now categorize their foundations according to undertone: try MAC, L’oreal True Match, or Everyday Minerals.

~ Admittedly, in the above photo Lindsay could be just suffering from a bronzer overload.  If you are going to wear bronzer, choose an appropriate shade and blend it really well, all the way down your neck.  To avoid changing the appearance of your skin tone completely, lightly apply product only where the sun would naturally hit: your forehead, the top of your nose and chin, and your cheek bones.

~ Some people’s skin can dramatically change with the seasons, from lighter in the winter months to a few shades darker in summer.  Be aware of this and match your foundation accordingly.  This could mean you need to use two, three, maybe even four different shades throughout the year.

~ Before purchasing a foundation, try it on!  I’m not saying to slather tester makeup on your face, but pick an area on your body that matches your face (for me, it’s the underside of my arm), and try a swatch of makeup there.  If, when you blend it in, the product disappears, you’ve found a good shade.

~One really convenient thing about some online companies is they offer sample sizes.  Everyday Minerals Cosmetics (www.everydayminerals.com) will sent you three foundation samples, a blush sample, and a concealer sample for free, you just have to pay shipping (just over $3).  It’s a great way to find the right foundation for you.

~ Ask for help!  If you’re at the cosmetics counter or drugstore and feeling lost, ask the cosmetologist for assistance.  These professionals are well trained and can help you, just ask!

Along with overplucked brows, wearing too much blush can make you look older.  Believe it or not, in the above photo Hayden Panettiere is only 18.  Yeah, I think I’ve made my point.  To avoid looking like you’re ten years older and wearing clown paint, try these quick tips:

~ Choose an appropriate color.  Try to pick a shade that matches your natural blush color.  If you are unsure about this, try bending over for a few seconds and let the blood rush to your head.  The color that appears on your cheeks is what you should aim for.

~ Makeup can look quite different under different lights, so make sure to check your reflection in a few rooms before stepping outside.  Even ask someone you trust to tell you if you have too much on.

~ One way to achieve a natural look is to apply blush before your foundation.  This is also a good way to make sure your blush is well blended.

~ Be careful not to apply too much.  Using a soft, fluffy blush brush, pick up a little powder (tap off any excess), and dust it onto your cheeks.  Remember not to pick up too much product, if you haven’t applied enough, you can always add another layer.

~ Brush color onto the apples of your cheek and sweep the rest along your cheekbone.  Avoid depositing color too close to your nose or eyes.  Keep the product focused on the apples of your cheeks, you want to look like you have a healthy flush, not like you just ran a marathon.

~ If you do apply a little too much, don’t panic, you don’t have to remove all your makeup.  Try blending it with a clean fluffy brush, or with a little translucent powder.  If that doesn’t do the trick apply a thin layer of foundation on top of the blush, some color will still show through, but it won’t be as dramatic.  This works especaially well with mineral foundation.  Be careful not to repeat this layering process to much, you don’t want your foundation to look cakey.

Time for the second post in the Makeup Don’ts Series!

I was completely thrilled when I came upon this image of Keira Knightley while looking for photos of overplucked eyebrows.  It shows what a huge impact eyebrows can have on your overall look.  Along with making you look less refined, overplucking can really age a person, as shown in the photoshopped image on the right.  To prevent overplucking, check out the tips below:

~If your brows are overplucked, please, please let them grow in.  I know it might be a difficult process, but it will be well worth the wait. Resist the urge to pluck!

~Once they have grown back (or if you have au naturale brows to begin with), try removing only stray hairs.  These are hairs that are visibly separated from the actual eyebrow and most of them are under, not above, the brow.

~Avoid plucking above the brow.  Arched eyebrows are flattering, so try not to diminish yours.  If your brows are really unruly, try to keep above-the-brow plucking to a minimum.

~When shaping your brows take note of where they should begin and end.  A good trick to use is to imagine a line between your nose and the corners of your eye, as in the photo below.  Anything past those lines can be removed.

~A little grooming can go a long way: fill in any gaps with a brow powder or a pencil (make sure the shade is not too dark!), apply a brow gel to keep them in place, and trim the hairs if they are too long.

~Remember that brows generally look their best when their natural shape is maintained, so try not to mess with them too much!

New series everybody! While I am a firm believer in there being no “rules” for makeup, there are rules for good application. This series will provide an overview of those don’ts and suggest ways to avoid them.

So up first, clumpy lashes. Okay, so voluminous lashes are supposed to be a good thing right? Well, not this much volume. With lashes, you want to make it look like you have a plump, long, full set. Not the mess shown in the photo below.

How can you get a plump, long, full set of lashes without clumps? Here are a few tips:
~Get a new mascara every three months! Mascara is one of those products with a definite shelf life, and it’s a short one. As a mascara nears its expiration date it will get clumpy, so put it out of its misery and toss it.
~Try a different kind, even switch brands. Mascara is one of those personal things, so something that works well with your lashes may not work for someone else. If you are trying to make your friend’s favorite mascara work for you, it might be in vain.
~Look for an appropriate brush. Generally, the more bristles on the mascara wand, the better separation it will provide.
~If too much product on the brush is causing the problem, try simply wiping it with a tissue before each use.
~Try running a eyelash comb through your lashes immediately after applying your mascara (don’t wait for the mascara to dry), this can help remove excess product as well as separate lashes.
~When applying mascara, start at the root of the lash and wiggle the wand back and forth while you work your way up. The wiggling motion will promote lash separation. OR trying blinking (my favorite way to apply mascara). Place the wand at the root of the lashes and simply blink! Your eyelid closing so suddenly will really force each of your lashes between the bristles of your mascara wand allowing for a clump-free application! Just be careful to avoid getting mascara on your eyelid.
~Final tip: try Cover Girl Lash Blast. This is the only mascara I can think of that’s completely clump free. Completely. Clump. Free.